Patek Philippe Unveils the New Cubitus Collection: A Bold Take on Sporty Elegance

By gregory lausch

In October 2024, Patek Philippe introduced its latest collection, the Cubitus, marking an exciting new chapter in the brand's history. Known for its mastery of complications and timeless designs, Patek Philippe has once again pushed the boundaries of watchmaking by fusing daring aesthetics with sporty elegance in this innovative collection.

When I first heard that Patek Philippe was going to unveil not just new watches but an entirely new line, it felt like the moment we had all been waiting for since the retirement of the iconic 5711. The 58xx series, while respectable, never quite filled the gap left by the legendary Nautilus. This release, however, carries a different weight. It's not just another addition to the catalog; it's a potential turning point.

Whenever a brand attempts to follow up on a design as iconic as Gérald Genta's Nautilus, there’s always skepticism. Collectors, myself included, tend to react with initial discontent, flooding forums with critical thoughts. Yet, now that the Patek Philippe Cubitus has arrived, the conversation shifts. It’s here, and we can finally judge it on its own merits.

In this article, we’ll dive deeper into the Cubitus collection, share our expert analysis of each model, and explore what this means for the future of Patek Philippe. Stay with us as we dissect the details and provide our insights into this bold new direction for the brand. Read our thoughts on the watches and the collection at the end of this article.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5822P-001

The Cubitus by Patek Philippe: A fresh take on classic design

The Cubitus collection brings a bold and unique reinterpretation of the "elegant sporty" style with its striking square-shaped case with rounded corners. This design choice pays homage to the quadrangular cases that defined Patek Philippe's aesthetic during the Art Deco era, while also presenting a modern twist. The combination of square, circular, and octagonal shapes creates a watch that is both daring and refined.

The case features a meticulously crafted design, with contrasting finishes that elevate its visual appeal. Vertical satin-brushing on the bezel and case, combined with polished chamfers, highlights the level of craftsmanship that Patek Philippe is renowned for. Each watch in the collection requires 55 manual operations, underscoring the attention to detail and precision.

From left to right: Reference 5821/1a, 5822P-001, 5821/1AR

3 Distinct models and references

The Cubitus collection debuts with three distinctive models, each offering a unique blend of technical innovation and aesthetic appeal.

1. Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day, and Moon Phases (Ref. 5822P-001)

This platinum timepiece is the technical showpiece of the collection. It features a brand-new movement, the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, which powers instantaneous displays of the grand date, moon phases, and day of the week. Patek Philippe has filed six patent applications for the movement, ensuring precision and innovation, including the alignment of large-date digits and the simultaneous jumping of all indications in just 18 milliseconds.

The blue sunburst dial, adorned with horizontal relief embossing, enhances the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated feel. Applied white-gold baton markers and luminescent hands provide legibility, while the watch's slim 45mm platinum case sits elegantly on the wrist. A diamond baguette set at 6 o’clock adds a subtle touch of luxury, while the sapphire crystal case back reveals the intricacies of the 22K gold mini-rotor.

2. Cubitus Two-Tone (Ref. 5821/1AR-001)

Combining steel and rose gold, this model adds a vintage touch to the collection. The rose gold bezel and central bracelet links contrast beautifully with the satin-brushed steel case and lateral links, creating a refined yet striking look.

The blue sunburst dial, featuring the signature horizontal relief embossing, provides a classic backdrop to the rose-gold hour markers and hands. Powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C, this watch is both technically advanced and aesthetically pleasing. With a slim profile of 8.3mm and a water resistance of 30 meters, it embodies sporty elegance for the modern watch enthusiast.

3. Cubitus Steel (Ref. 5821/1A-001)

For those seeking the essence of sporty elegance, the Cubitus in steel with an olive-green sunburst dial is the perfect match. The square case with rounded corners is complemented by a steel bracelet featuring alternating brushed and polished finishes, adding a sense of versatility and durability.

Like its two-tone counterpart, the steel model is powered by the Caliber 26-330 S C, which boasts a central rotor in 21K gold and a stop-seconds function. The olive-green dial, with its embossed relief and white-gold accents, offers a bold yet understated aesthetic, making this model the ideal choice for everyday wear.

A Celebration of Craftsmanship

Each watch in the Cubitus collection is a testament to Patek Philippe's dedication to fine craftsmanship and technical innovation. The collection’s horizontal relief decoration is not only featured on the dials but also on the rotors and mini-rotors, further enhancing the watches' visual appeal and sporty character. The integrated metal bracelets on two models also mirror the contrasting finishes seen on the cases, showcasing Patek Philippe's attention to every detail.

The launch of the Cubitus collection reinforces Patek Philippe's reputation as a leader in both design and technical excellence, offering a new take on the classic sporty watch that will captivate both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.

To complement the Cubitus timepieces, Patek Philippe has introduced matching cufflinks for each model, echoing the shape and design of the watches. Whether in platinum, rose gold, or steel, the cufflinks are adorned with the same sunburst motif and horizontal relief, providing the perfect finishing touch for a well-dressed connoisseur.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821/1A with the new Patek Philippe Cubitus Cufflinks

Conclusion

Unlike the self-proclaimed watch experts who are quick to criticize every new release just to gain influence online, I take a more measured approach to the Cubitus collection. While it's easy to join the chorus of complaints, I personally don’t mind—and even appreciate—this new release. Yes, 85% of watches sold are round, but my experience has shown that there is plenty of room for an additional square-shaped watch in the market. Take Jaeger-LeCoultre, for example—my personal favorite brand. They’ve long mastered the non-round watch with models like the Reverso. For years, I’ve thought they were the only ones who could pull off a square design. But with the Cubitus, Patek Philippe has entered the conversation.

Is this collection revolutionary? Not exactly. But it’s certainly a fresh take for Patek Philippe. In many ways, it feels like they’re positioning themselves to compete with the Cartier Santos, which has surged in popularity among newer collectors. The timing seems right for Patek to offer something different, and the Cubitus fills that gap.

As for price points, the 5822P-001 in platinum will be available at $88,378, while the steel and olive-green 5821/1A-001 is priced at $41,243, and the two-tone steel and rose gold 5821/1AR-001 comes in at $61,275. The idea behind the Cubitus collection, as Patek Philippe has framed it, was to offer a more "affordable" entry into the brand. Yet, it's laughable that the Stern family believes affordability starts at $41,243. While these prices are aligned with Patek’s positioning as a luxury brand, they still place these watches well out of reach for the average collector.

I understand that Patek Philippe doesn’t want to dilute its prestige by offering a $10,000 watch, but the pricing strategy still raises questions. How many of these will be produced, and what kind of effort will it take to secure one from an authorized dealer? My guess is that the full steel model with the olive-green dial will be the most sought-after. Not only does it offer the best price point within the collection, but it also taps into the trend for green dials, which have been immensely popular in recent years.

One other thing I can’t get behind is the name of this collection: Cubitus. What a name. It’s an aspect of this release that doesn’t sit right with me. For a brand like Patek Philippe, which stands for elegance, precision, and timeless design, Cubitus feels almost comical. It’s hard to take seriously, and I fear this name might turn away some collectors. It even sounds like something you’d expect to hear in a spell from a Harry Potter movie. While the design, craftsmanship, and technical innovation behind the collection are undeniable, I can’t help but think they could have chosen a more fitting name for such an important launch.

Based on early demand, I estimate that these watches will trade on the secondary market at anywhere between 2x and 2.5x their retail price. In the future, I hope Patek Philippe explores more chronograph options within the Cubitus line, considers different case sizes, and—most importantly—revisits the pricing strategy. A competitive price point in the range of $25,000 to $30,000, similar to some Jaeger-LeCoultre models, would make this collection far more accessible and offer a broader range of watch collectors to merely look after a Patek Philippe for the next generation.

For more information about this release, visit the Patek Philippe Website.

FURTHER READING

Why are Rolex Watches so Expensive

By gregory lausch

For over a century, Rolex watches have been synonymous with luxury and status. Prices for Rolex watches can range from a few thousand dollars to well into the six-figure mark for rare vintage models. Both new and pre-owned Rolex timepieces are significantly more expensive than most other watch brands. But what exactly makes Rolex watches so expensive? In this article, we’ll explore the reasons behind why are Rolex watches so expensive. From the exceptional craftsmanship that goes into making each watch to the prestige associated with owning one, it's clear why a Rolex can become a cherished family heirloom passed down through generations. We’ll also examine factors specific to the secondary market that drive up the price of pre-owned Rolexes, such as high demand and limited supply. By the end of this article, you’ll have a better understanding of the true value proposition of owning a Rolex. The justification goes far beyond merely telling the time or making a fashion statement. As the brand’s slogan says, a Rolex is “an achievement in itself” – a product of cutting-edge innovation and meticulous attention to detail that results in some of the finest watches ever made. After reading, you might find yourself thinking less about why Rolex watches are so expensive and more about why you haven’t already invested in one. In this article, we’ll delve into why Rolex watches carry such a high price tag. From the exceptional craftsmanship involved in creating each watch to the prestige associated with owning one, it’s easy to understand why a Rolex can become a cherished family heirloom passed down through generations. We’ll also explore factors specific to the secondary market that contribute to the high cost of pre-owned Rolexes, such as high demand and limited supply. By the end of this article, you’ll gain a deeper insight into the true value proposition of owning a Rolex. The justification extends far beyond merely telling the time or making a fashion statement. As the brand’s slogan says, a Rolex is “an achievement in itself” – the result of cutting-edge innovation and meticulous attention to detail, producing some of the finest watches ever made. After reading, you might find yourself thinking less about why Rolex watches are so expensive and more about why you haven’t already invested in one.   Are Rolex Watches Really Considered Expensive? The question of whether a Rolex watch is "expensive" is subjective and depends on one's financial situation and perspective on luxury goods. Nevertheless, Rolex’s position as a premium brand in the watch market means that most of its models come with high price tags. For example, as of 2024, a brand-new Rolex Submariner in stainless steel, one of the brand's most popular sports models, sells for about $9,000. Models made of solid gold are much more expensive, with prices ranging from $40,000 to over $100,000. Even at the lower end, around $5,000, Rolex watches are significantly more expensive than standard timepieces from non-luxury brands. For wealthy buyers who are accustomed to high-end luxury items, a Rolex Submariner might seem reasonable or even entry-level in the realm of luxury watches. Consider that brands like Patek Philippe often sell watches starting at $50,000 and going much higher. Ultimately, whether a Rolex is considered expensive depends on the individual's viewpoint.   What is the Cost of Rolex Watches? As mentioned, the prices of used Rolex watches vary widely depending on the model and materials used. At The Second Hand Club, we update our prices every week to make sure that you get the best current market price(link opens in new tab/window) for your watches. Generally, brand-new Rolex watches sold at retail fall into these price categories: Stainless Steel Models: $5,000 – $10,000Popular examples include the Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master II, Sea-Dweller, Datejust, and the Daytona in stainless steel. Entry-level models start around $5,000, while the most sought-after steel sports models can reach up to $10,000 and often have waitlists. Two-Tone Models: $7,000 – $15,000Rolex watches made of stainless steel and gold, known as two-tone models, range from about $7,000 for a Datejust with a fluted bezel to around $15,000 for higher-end two-tone sports models like the Submariner or GMT-Master II. Solid 18K Gold Models: $18,000 – $50,000Examples include the solid 18k gold versions of the Submariner, Day-Date, Yacht-Master, and GMT-Master. Prices range from the high teens to mid-$30,000s for the watch head alone, with gemstone and diamond-laden models reaching $50,000 or more. Platinum Models: $25,000 – $100,000+Due to their rarity and the valuable, dense metal, platinum Rolex models are in a higher price tier. Platinum models start around $25,000 and can exceed $100,000 for diamond-encrusted Day-Date models. These ranges cover most of Rolex’s core modern production watches, but there are always exceptions. Ultimately, the high price reflects the finely crafted timepieces made from prestigious materials. Why are Rolex Watches at Such a High Cost? A Rolex watch offers more than just timekeeping; it delivers an entire experience steeped in over a century of horological heritage. Each Rolex watch represents a fusion of modern innovation and traditional Swiss craftsmanship. The brand invests heavily in refining every component, ensuring unparalleled performance and precision. The cost of a Rolex is partly due to the high-quality materials used. Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, which surpasses standard industrial grades and maintains its polished look for decades. The gold alloys are unique blends created exclusively for Rolex. Even elements like sapphire crystals and premium leather straps add to the overall price. Rolex’s vertically integrated production process also plays a significant role in its pricing. From raw materials to finished product, Rolex manufactures all key components in-house at their cutting-edge facilities. This approach ensures strict quality control and minimizes reliance on external suppliers. The precision machining, molding, and tooling required meet extremely tight tolerances, measured to thousandths of a millimeter, which naturally increases production costs. Additionally, the assembly of each watch involves meticulous fine-tuning by skilled technicians and master watchmakers. This detailed, hands-on process ensures that every watch performs flawlessly, even in the smallest details. Rolex’s commitment to perfect accuracy and reliability requires considerable time and labor. This dedication to the highest standards is evident in every aspect of a Rolex watch, both inside and out. It guarantees that customers investing in a Rolex can expect a timepiece that will last for generations. Each component is built to maintain its function and appearance for many years. Ultimately, the phrase "you get what you pay for" is especially true when it comes to owning a Rolex. The High Standard Of Rolex Watches As previously mentioned, Rolex is committed to maintaining the highest standards in every aspect of its watches—from research and development to manufacturing and quality testing, even buying one of their oldest retail partners to deliver the best customer experience. This meticulous attention to detail is reflected in the materials sourced, components produced, and processes employed across the company’s vertically integrated production facilities. For instance, Rolex creates its own gold alloys to ensure consistent quality and durability. The precise blend of silver and copper in the gold mix gives Rolex gold its unique luster and strength. The metal is so pure and dense that each Rolex case requires specialized machining equipment to slowly carve and shape it. This extra effort increases costs but results in watches designed to last a lifetime. The paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairsprings inside each mechanical movement are another example of Rolex innovation. Engineers spent years perfecting the hairspring’s dimensions and geometry, enhancing it with a patented coating to improve stability and shock resistance. These enhancements significantly boost timekeeping accuracy. The fact that no other brand uses comparable hairsprings or manufactures their own further underscores Rolex’s commitment to the highest standards of watchmaking. Even Rolex wristwatch bracelets and straps meet exacting standards. They integrate solid end links, smooth edges on each link for comfort, and pre-stretch each bracelet until it is perfectly supple. Additionally, Rolex uses specialized oils to lubricate each movement and ensures flawless polishing of cases and bands. Achieving such high standards across all watch components results in unparalleled quality and performance, justifying the cost.   Is My Rolex Watch Worth the Money? When you purchase a Rolex, you're acquiring much more than just a timekeeping device. Each Rolex watch embodies a dedication to groundbreaking innovation combined with time-honored craftsmanship, executed to the highest standard. Rolex’s pioneering achievements demonstrate how the brand consistently revolutionizes watchmaking technology while preserving the traditional techniques it has perfected over the past century. This unique blend allows owners to enjoy both advanced capabilities and the hallmark touches that Rolex has mastered through decades of meticulous craftsmanship. For instance, the intricate self-winding mechanisms in every model provide chronometric accuracy, certified by an independent Swiss agency. At the same time, skilled watchmakers meticulously hand-assemble and fine-tune each movement to perfection. This synergy between mechanical expertise and human precision results in exceptionally accurate timepieces with remarkable longevity. Moreover, the unparalleled quality of every component—from the crystals to the bracelets—ensures lasting aesthetics and comfort. Every surface and material is designed to maintain its original appearance and withstand daily wear for decades while retaining full functionality. Much like a finely engineered automobile offers both technical excellence and elegant design, a Rolex provides both cutting-edge innovation and timeless beauty. Owning a Rolex also bestows a sense of heritage and status. The iconic crown logo instantly signifies a watch of distinction, connecting the wearer to a legacy of pioneering milestones. For over a century, Rolex watches have accompanied explorers to the peak of Mount Everest, plunged to the depths of the ocean, organized the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup(link opens in new tab/window), raced with winning drivers, and timed matches at Wimbledon. This rich history gives each Rolex an intangible pedigree unmatched by any other luxury timepiece. The cost of a Rolex is partly due to the high-quality materials used. Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, which surpasses standard industrial grades and maintains its polished look for decades. The gold alloys are unique blends created exclusively for Rolex. Even elements like sapphire crystals and premium leather straps add to the overall price. Rolex’s vertically integrated production process also plays a significant role in its pricing. From raw materials to finished product, Rolex manufactures all key components in-house at their cutting-edge facilities. This approach ensures strict quality control and minimizes reliance on external suppliers. The precision machining, molding, and tooling required meet extremely tight tolerances, measured to thousandths of a millimeter, which naturally increases production costs. Additionally, the assembly of each watch involves meticulous fine-tuning by skilled technicians and master watchmakers. This detailed, hands-on process ensures that every watch performs flawlessly, even in the smallest details. Rolex’s commitment to perfect accuracy and reliability requires considerable time and labor. This dedication to the highest standards is evident in every aspect of a Rolex watch, both inside and out. It guarantees that customers investing in a Rolex can expect a timepiece that will last for generations. Each component is built to maintain its function and appearance for many years. Ultimately, the phrase "you get what you pay for" is especially true when it comes to owning a Rolex.   How come Pre-Owned or Used Rolex Watches go for More than current Models? Several key factors contribute to why pre-owned Rolex watches often sell for more than their retail price. These include: Vintage Rolex Watches – Rolexes from the 1950s to the 1970s often fetch prices exponentially higher than their original cost due to their scarcity and collectability. Rare & Discontinued Models – Discontinued and rare Rolex variants also command substantial premiums over retail prices. Their limited availability makes them highly desirable. Availability – Tight supply and long waitlists make popular models difficult to obtain from retailers, compelling buyers to pay higher prices on the resale market. Desirability – Certain Rolex watches develop a cult following and prestige, allowing them to demand significant premiums from collectors. As we’ll explore in the following sections, the interaction of these economic and psychological factors drives pre-owned Rolex prices to soar well above retail levels. Vintage Rolex Watches As mentioned, vintage Rolex watches often sell for significantly more than their original prices. But what defines a vintage Rolex? Generally, vintage Rolex watches are those manufactured minimum 20 years ago but ideally more in the range of 30 to 40 years. For instance, references produced just before 2000, would be considered vintage today. The most valuable vintage Rolex watches hail from the 1950s, 1960s, and early 1970s—widely regarded as the brand’s golden era among serious collectors. Sport models like the early Submariner, GMT-Master, and Cosmograph Daytona are particularly prized for their historical significance, rarity, and iconic tool watch designs. Most vintage Rolexes feature stainless steel cases and manual-wind mechanical movements, with some late 1960s and early 1970s models housing self-winding movements. Matte black dials and faded bezel inserts add to their vintage patina. Collectors also highly value period-correct features such as pointed crown guards, acrylic crystals, and smaller logos. Finding a vintage Rolex watch with all original parts is exceptionally rare and commands substantial premiums. Earlier references, especially those from the 1950s and 1960s, fetch significantly higher prices. However, even late vintage models from the 1980s and 1990s are experiencing a rise in resale values. Much like fine wines, the passage of time only increases interest in landmark vintage Rolex pieces. Rare and Discontinued Rolex Watches Discontinued Rolex models constitute another segment of pre-owned watches that often fetch higher prices than their original retail value. Rolex regularly updates its lineup, introducing new models while phasing out older ones. When a reference is discontinued, it typically becomes more coveted by collectors. Notable examples of highly sought-after discontinued sports models include the Rolex Explorer II 16570 and the Submariner 16610. In addition, rare dial and bezel variations can drive up resale prices significantly. Modern Rolex sports models featuring the striking “Pepsi” blue and red bezel inserts or the distinctive “Panda” black and white dials often sell for nearly double their retail price on the secondary market. The limited availability of these special editions makes them particularly desirable, leading buyers to pay premium prices. Affluent Rolex collectors also pursue exotic versions, such as solid gold or platinum models, as well as those embellished with diamonds, gemstones, and colorful enamel dials. With production numbers restricted to just dozens or hundreds, rather than thousands, these bespoke Rolexes become instant collectibles, often with extensive waitlists. The limited supply and high demand for these discontinued or ultra-rare Rolex watches drive their resale values to significantly exceed their original prices. Their scarcity fuels ever-growing interest among collectors, which in turn enhances their market value. Availability of Rolex Watches The scarcity of available Rolex watches significantly influences the pricing in the pre-owned market. The limited distribution of popular models such as the Rolex Daytona(link opens in new tab/window), GMT-Master II(link opens in new tab/window), and Submariner fails to meet the worldwide demand. Due to lengthy waitlists at authorized Rolex dealers, many buyers turn to the secondary market, where prices are often much higher. Vintage references are even more difficult to find in excellent condition, as the limited numbers produced decades ago continue to dwindle. This scarcity, coupled with high demand, allows sellers to set steep prices. Numerous collectors, enthusiasts, and investors are prepared to pay these premiums. Economically, when demand outstrips supply, prices rise until balance is achieved. However, the strong demand for both new and vintage Rolex watches shows no signs of decreasing. Unless Rolex dramatically increases its production or demand suddenly drops—both unlikely scenarios—the limited availability will continue to drive up pre-owned Rolex prices. In addition, rare dial and bezel variations can drive up resale prices significantly. Modern Rolex sports models featuring the striking “Pepsi” blue and red bezel inserts or the distinctive “Panda” black and white dials often sell for nearly double their retail price on the secondary market. The limited availability of these special editions makes them particularly desirable, leading buyers to pay premium prices. Affluent Rolex collectors also pursue exotic versions, such as solid gold or platinum models, as well as those embellished with diamonds, gemstones, and colorful enamel dials. With production numbers restricted to just dozens or hundreds, rather than thousands, these bespoke Rolexes become instant collectibles, often with extensive waitlists. The limited supply and high demand for these discontinued or ultra-rare Rolex watches drive their resale values to significantly exceed their original prices. Their scarcity fuels ever-growing interest among collectors, which in turn enhances their market value. Collectors Want Rolex Watches Certain Rolex sports watch models have achieved a legendary status in the watch-collecting world, driving enormous demand and commanding high resale prices due to their appeal among enthusiasts. The stainless-steel Rolex Daytona exemplifies this trend. Although its retail price is around $15,000, it frequently sells for $30,000 or more in the secondary market. Despite being in current production, the Daytona's exclusivity and prestige lead buyers to pay significantly more than the retail price. Vintage models like the Submariner ref. 5512 and GMT-Master ref. 1675 are also highly sought after because of their historical importance and timeless design. These vintage sports watches represent the classic Rolex look that many collectors admire. Their rarity enhances their appeal and increases their market value. In the realm of watch collecting, early Rolex sports models are considered the pinnacle of collectible timepieces. The desire to own these iconic references often justifies substantial financial sacrifices. Their continually rising prices only reinforce their legendary status and heighten their desirability. The Real Value of Rolex Watches Given their premium status, some people question the high prices of Rolex watches and their true value. However, evaluating a Rolex based only on price or comparing it to standard watches misses the point of what makes a Rolex valuable. Owning a Rolex connects you to a rich history, heritage, and prestige, as well as the peak of mechanical watch innovation—qualities that few other luxury watches can match. Over a lifetime of use, the exceptional quality, precision, and durability of a Rolex, steeped in its long history, make it not only a status symbol but also a smart investment, unlike more disposable consumer goods. Although they are not cheap, Rolex watches maintain significant monetary and sentimental value for decades, even generations. Vintage models often sell at auction for more than their original price, even when adjusted for inflation. Few other products—from electronics to luxury cars—provide such lasting financial value. The true cost of a Rolex comes from the extensive labor and meticulous attention to detail in each watch’s production—not just the precious metals used. From hundreds of quality inspections to the precise machining of components, the careful craftsmanship on a large scale involves significant operational expenses. Ultimately, Rolex watches stand in a league of their own as enduring symbols of personal success. The value gained from a lifetime of satisfaction far exceeds any price tag for those who own them. For most Rolex owners, the true value becomes apparent once they experience the watch.